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Monday, January 30, 2012

How to dress: contrast collars



'What happens, clothes-wise, from the collarbone up, changes the tone of your look in a way that has nothing to do with seasonal trends'

In pictures: Four of the best contrast collars
Jess Cartner-Morley: CollarsView larger picture
Contrast collars: This is a trend that speaks to every audience. Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian
Don't be misled by the gold sequins. This column is not about fashion. What happens, clothes-wise, from the collarbone up – the part of your outfit you can see in an old-fashioned passport-size photo – changes the tone of your look in a way that has nothing to do with seasonal trends. You don't even have to get changed to make a difference. You could be wearing a simple cotton shirt – but whether you wear it open-necked or fasten the top two buttons will alter the tone of your look as much as changing your greeting from, "Dear Sir" to, "Hey you" changes the tone of an email. In my case, I've added a gold sequin collar to a navy M&S men's jumper, which is a bit like changing it from Dear Sir to Can I Buy You A Drink.
Buttoning up the collar on your shirt is the second-fastest way to smarten up your look. (The fastest? Posture. Sit up straight.) There is no need for intricate style semantics here. Swap a white T-shirt for a collared white shirt and you change the level of seriousness you project in a way everyone understands. Add a tie and you change gears again.
Link to this video
The beauty of the collar-and-tie system is everyone knows what the signs mean. Much of fashion operates on a complicated code system that relies on your being sure of the level of sophistication your audience will bring to wardrobe appraisal. There is little point in wasting your new paisley-print blouse on some no-mark who doesn't even realise paisley is the new Breton stripe, is there? But when you jazz up the collar on your outfit, you have no such concerns. Like wearing the hat out of a party cracker, it is a sartorial signal everyone will understand.
The contrast collar has the seal of Jil Sander approval and will be all over the high street soon, no doubt. As a detail, it is to this season what the contrast sleeve was to last: an easy way to ring the changes and show you've done your style homework. This is a trend that speaks to every audience, because those who don't get the Sander reference will see that a collar detail looks extra smart. And if they still don't get the message, you can always try gold sequins.
• Jess wears gold sequin collar £50, by Gemma Lister.
Jumper £32, by Marks & Spencer.
Trousers £110, by Whistles.
Shoes £95, by Nine West, from Kurt Geiger.
Photograph by David Newby. Hair and make-up: Celia Burton at Mandy Coakley.

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